Skip to main content

Simple Customs: Tail Swaps

Most days when I start a new custom mini model, I get out my saw and cut off the tail and Dremel off the mane with the intent of sculpting new hair from scratch—but upon closer inspection, I’ve noticed that it isn’t that the original tails are all terrible, it’s just that I’m tired of seeing them on that particular model.

My first tail swaps began with Valegro’s tail. Here it is on a TWH:


And again on Mirado, but rotated:


I thought I’d share a little bit about my process for those of you who want to experiment.
  1. If you are keeping the mane (and it isn’t braided) find a tail that matches in sculpting style. For example, the G3 Peruvian Paso and the G4 Driving Horse (now sometimes called the Walking Warmblood) both have hair with many detailed sections—a perfect Jane Lunger match!
  2. Carefully cut the tails off of both models with a small saw, always being mindful of your fingers and using a vice to hold the towel-wrapped model if possible. 
  3. When the tails are off it’s a great time to sand seams on the hindquarters and hind legs.
  4. The next step is drilling the holes for the wires that will attach the two pieces. I’m using large paperclips for my wire, so my drill bit is approximately the same thickness as the paperclip wire. The hole in the horse’s body is about 1/4 inch deep, and the corresponding one in the tail a bit less because I didn’t want to drill all the way though it. I am also attaching it at the leg. (Ignore the two holes in the hind end, I misjudged the location.) 
  5. Now I cut the paperclip to length with wire cutters/needlenose pliers. This can send sharp bits of metal flying, so safety glasses are good. I try to hold on to both pieces of paperclip or put the short piece in the hole in the horse/tail as I cut so it doesn’t get lost. I test fit the tail on the wires, and trim if needed.
  6. Using pliers to hold them, I coat the wires in gel super glue and place them in the horse. Then I coat the other end and wiggle the tail in place. I let the glue dry for several hours.
  7. The tail-to-hindquarters connection always needs a little touch-up. I use Aves Studio’s Super White two-part epoxy. Mixing A and B, and using a little rubbing alcohol or water, I fill in the area and sculpt the missing hairs. A pencil, silicone blender, or other scupting too is sometimes handy here. This takes 24 hours to cure before sanding and priming.
Step 2: Tails have been cut off with a small saw.
Step 4: Drilling the holes. Sometimes they don't work and I try again (see 2 in hindquarters) Note the one in the hock for a second attachment.

Supplies: Dremel with drill bit, large paperclip, and gel super glue.


Two wires make the tail extra sturdy.

Mane and tail (Mirado's) in place. Mane needs to be heated and bent down near ears.
Finished Morgan mare.
Finished gaited horse.





Labels:

Comments

Post a Comment

Popular Posts

New Pan Pastels - An Update

A little while back I posted a photo of my new Pan Pastel colors. I've gotten a chance to use them, and have found them quite handy.      First, these colors are all useful—which is not something I say about many of the Pan Pastel colors because they are not all well suited for horses. The orange shade looks a little odd at first, but once it's part of the coat it softens to a nice, bright addition to chestnuts, palominos, buckskins and bays. I think of is as more of a golden tone than orange when the model is finished.      Second, they are easy to use—no sandpaper palette needed, no huge-jar-o-dust waiting to spill. The pans work with both paintbrushes and Microbrush applicators for small details like leg bars and dorsal stripes.     Third, the colors work well together and blend well. For example, on this model I used the Burnt Sienna Extra Dark to deepen a few areas I had dusted with the Burnt Sienna Shade. So... thes...
Post a Comment
Read more

A Golden bay in Pan Pastels

I thought I'd share a bit of my process. I'm working in Pan Pastels. The model in question is a simple custom Morgan Stallion from the new standing Stablemate Warmblood mold. He has had some work done on his barrel and hindquarters. His mane and tail have been changed as well.  I prepped him with Rustoleum 2X primer in white and taped off some white markings with blue painters tape. Feel free to follow along and paint your own golden bay or liver chestnut.  A Pan Pastel Project Art Supplies Shopping list: A model with sanded seams and logo removed 400 Grit Sandpaper Masking or painters tape (optional) Rustolem 2X Primer Pan Pastels: 280.3 Orange Shade, 820.2 Neutral Grey Extra Dark (or other neutral grey), Layer 3: 740.3 Burnt Sienna Shade, 740.1 Burnt Sienna Extra Dark, 800.5 Black. Pan Pastel optional colors for shading mane, tail, and white markings: Optional fleshy pink pastel or paint for a pink nose or shading white markings. Krylon Matte, Testor's Dullcote, or other ...
Post a Comment
Read more

Performance Bases with Kinetic Sand

I am getting ready for the Save The Tigers Model Horse Show on Saturday, and I thought I'd spiff up my performance entries a little with arena bases. My goals here were to keep to a small budget and a manageable size. For the first one, I found a wall hanging at Walmart—a picture frame without glass or a matte for about $5.00. I removed the hook from the back so it would lie flat on the table and a clip from the front. I also found a 3 lb. bag of kinetic sand for $13.00. (Regular sand can be done, but I usually make a mess of it.) Honestly, I'm a little worried about sand scratching my models, but it does look neat. The fence is made of hobby wood (the small Popsicle sticks) and is removable for easy, flat storage. It stands 1 3/4 inches above the edge of the arena. Just a note, I steer clear of balsa wood because it is so fragile. Picture frame base about 6 x 8.5 inches. 3 lbs of kinetic sand isn't a lot. Quick! Unlike regular sand, kinetic sand h...
Post a Comment
Read more