Custom Mini Model Horses

  Here I’m spraying a clear finish. For primer, I would not have this on my deck. I don’t have an indoor spray booth, so I bring my models outside when I need to use aerosol products such as primer or Krylon Matte Finish. And outside means weather and wind. Quick Tip: When I need to spray the entire model, I lay them on their side or stand them up instead of holding onto a leg or tail. I like to place them on blank paper (so I don’t have to deal with ink/toner on the upward-facing side.) I pin the paper to a box with push pins so it doesn’t catch a breeze and send models flying. Place models on top and spray, monitoring closely if weather is iffy. Also, if it’s cold outside I bring the models and the spray can indoors between sides/coats. I’m not sure I trust a cold rattle can to work at its best. Good luck!

I hope everyone is safe and healthy during these difficult times. I’m saddened that we won’t be gathering for spring live shows and this summer’s Breyerfest. I’m going to miss getting together with amazing friends in Michigan, Ohio and Kentucky. Until things change, thanks to everyone sharing their corner of the hobby world online! I needed a creative jolt to get me out of a quarantine funk, so I opened up my package of sculpting mesh. My victim is a Paralympic Driving horse that will become a Fjord custom. Harald, my previous Fjord, is from the same mold. His mane was a challenge for me because of the upright nature of it... so the contour mesh. Look for fine sculpting mesh at stores or online art-supply vendors. Slot along crest of neck cut with small miter saw. First, I cut a slot along the crest. This will hold the mesh in place. Then I cut a piece of mesh to fit. I left plenty of extra that I will trim and shape later. Scissors cut the mesh just fine, but please be ...

I hope all of you are safe and healthy, and I hope the model horse hobby is filling your time at home with a little joy. I've been working on finishing models that I've been meaning to get to for months or years. This is one of two models that I purchased to paint. She is a Hagen-Renaker Shetland foal. She is a little smaller than most Stablemate foals so she was a fun challenge to paint... plus she put a little "mini" into "custom minis." Meet Cupcake, a pintaloosa Miniature Horse filly! Cold Painted Hagen-Renaker Filly I couldn't resist this heart-shaped snip on this little girl. She's a baby silver dapple with both an blanket and pinto markings. QHICK TIP: Prepping china models for cold-painting is quite easy. This one came on a paper card. I carefully tore the paper away, then soaked her in rubbing alcohol. The glue on her feet rubbed off. Next, I filled any air-holes with epoxy. When that is cured (about 24-hours), I washed...

Ahh, models whose hooves are supposed to be flat on the table... I talked about how I like my models to stand well in a previous post--using a table-height view and sandpaper. But then I looked closer at a few works in progress and found a model or two where I used different techniques. The first model that came up was the Breyer standing pony. She has four tiny hooves that try to touch the table, but depending on the model, they don't always succeed. Part of this is physics. A three-legged stool will be stable, whereas a four-legged one will wobble. Another issue the pony has is that her toes can be a little rounded over. Breyer Stablemate Highland Pony Hooves I didn't want to use my sandpaper technique on this model because I didn't want to lose too much hoof in the process. (And this model's feet are carved out, which gives them a little space to add epoxy.) So I added a small ball of epoxy to each foot. Then I placed her on a flat surface. I use old ...

NaMoPaiMo 2020 Breyer/Resin combo draft horse. I am back in town after an enjoyable trip to Belgium and Germany and have recovered from the jet lag and head cold that had me dragging. My NaMoPaiMo model is finally getting a little color on him. His base coat is a light golden tone done in pastels. Pastel sticks (chalk, not oil pastels) used to "paint" my American Cream Draft Horse. I love Pan Pastels, but when it comes to pale colors I turned to other brands. Rembrant Pastels come in a wide variety of colors. This one here is a soft, not-too-bright yellow (234,8). This was my first time using Blick Artists' Pastels (from our local Dick Blick Store). Their Autumn Brown 2 filled the niche I needed for a very light brown. In front is a sick of DuvelCarre Pastel I've been carrying around since I first learned that you could paint with pastels. It has a little bit of shimmer to it. My current sandpaper palette. Some artists scrape their pastel sticks to crea...

There’s an old saying that goes “no hoof, no horse.” And I’m always reminding myself to check in on my model horses’ hooves. Especially those models whose hooves are supposed to be flat on the table.  I feel that a show-quality model should stand well. All feet that should be in contact with the table should be on the table—not hovering above it, not touching on one side and not the other. My boy’s feet on a flat surface. Right without shoe, left with a shoe. Enter two things: one, a piece of sandpaper. Two, a table-height view. If the model has a problem hoof (or four), I hold the sandpaper flat to my desk and move the model’s hooves across it. Back and forth, side to side or in circles—it can depend on the horse. The trick is to go slowly and check your progress often. This Rivet custom had a hovering right hind hoof. But I didn’t want to sand off the toe of the right fore. So... I sanded only the hind feet, letting the forefoot scrape ...

Hello and happy summer! I chose not to go to Breyerfest this year, so I’m home working on more custom minis for my show string and sales list. I’ve got a variety of models in progress and they all need a little structure for one reason or another: a forelock that will be free from the face, new ears, tailbones, tail swaps, a mane swap, a peg for a base, and my least favorite—repairing a leg. For these situations, I’m using paper clips! Paperclip for a forelock New ears and tail Mane swap Tail swap with two pins fixing a broken leg Paperclip and small drill bit First, I found a drill bit that was the same size as the small-sized paperclips. I’m using a Drexel tool, but keep in mind that a drill or hand-drill would also work. The big thing here is to hold/secure your models in a safe way so you don’t drill your fingers (ouch!). Wrapping the model in a towel and placing it in a small vice is a good choice. Second I drilled the holes, often cleaning the p...